Unrefinery

The Latest: Thursday 30 June 2016

Excessive collar roll is excessive.

Before the Internet it took years for fashion trends to pass "borderline", clear "pushing it" and reach "self-parodying". Over nearly a decade spanning the 60s and '70s, pant leg openings grew incrementally wider on an annual basis until they finally exceeded the circumference of the wearer's waist and someone finally burst out laughing to ruin the whole thing. In the self-congratulatory echo chamber that is #menswear, however, "dub-munks" with a single buckle closed spread faster than aerial spraying could contain them and "necktie boners" were fluffed and deflated within a single season.

The point here is that there aren't a lot of reasons to own a button-down collar in the first place, and "collar roll" is a silly thing for grown men to congratulate one another about. And once the space under your button-down collar becomes sufficiently expansive to shelter a family of four, it might be time to go unplug your router for a while.
27.jun.2016 meta style
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Double-Breasted Sighting at Suitsupply

DB suit options have been scarce at Suitsupply for the past year, which is unfortunate because they deserve a lot of credit for mainstreaming a trimmer silhouette for the genre that mixes and matches elements normally associated with less bankerly styles—patch pockets, soft shoulders, and kissing buttons for instance. This month the options expanded considerably with the welcome reapperance of their Madison VBC Suit [$499] in staple navy and medium grey. And most importantly, the addition of the Soho [$639] to their Design Your Own Suit offerings. Granted, it's nowhere close to a proper custom or made-to-measure program. You're stuck with the default sizes, and the only thing you can choose is the shell fabric—you can't even pick your own lining or buttons. But regardless, it does instantly make Soho double-breasted suits available in 54 different materials and that's nothing but good news.
20.jun.2016 style
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Lands' End Canvas By Lands' End

Lands' End has brought back their Canvas sub-brand as... Canvas By Lands' End. As in its first iteration, the label aims to reach a younger audience with slimmer fits and a lot of chambray. There was a lot to like about LEC as a source for comfortable yet flattering staple chinos, sweaters and light outerwear. CLE is off to a less appealing start as prices have generally crept upwards towards (and sometimes even past) the comparable J.Crew pieces they are clearly targeting—a $119 J.Crew cotton cardigan is mirrored by a similar sweater at CLE for $149. There are far fewer interesting items, including fewer wardrobe staples, and again items like $59 shorts seem priced with the company's frequent 20% and 30% discounts in mind.

The fall collections were always stronger the first time around, and here's hoping that trend continues.
13.jun.2016 style
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Don't half-ass casual shirt wearing

Wearing a shirt casually is a go-big-or-go-home sort of proposition. If you're going to roll up your sleeves, don't quit prematurely. Roll past the elbow. It'll be a little bit naturally disheveled at that point. Let it be—don't try to be excessively tidy, nor intentionally sh*t it up J.Crew style.

Wearing an open collar calls for the same approach. It can't look like you just took your tie off; otherwise don't bother. Have the right kind of collar, ironing, starch and upper torso to make it look intentional. Pro tip: if full chest exposure isn't for you, or for your workplace, or for polite society in general, a double-breasted coat or a v-neck or cardigan layer will give you a higher button point for open-collar demarcation and containment.
30.may.2016 style
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Lesser Known Hat Trick Variants

Everyone knows that in hockey, a hat trick occurs when a player scores three goals in a game. A "natural hat trick" is when all three are scored in a row without any other players' goals intervening. A "Gordie Howe Hat Trick", representing the all-around greatness of history's best player, is comprised of one goal, one assist, and one fight. A few of the lesser-known variants you can use to impress your friends as the playoffs reach their conclusion:

Claude Lemieux Hat Trick: Faking three injuries and in the process successfully drawing three penalties.

Sidney Crosby Hat Trick: One slam-your-stick, one take-a-dive, one whine-to-the-ref.

Washington Capitals Hat Trick: Making it to the third playoff round. (Note: no recorded historical occurrences.)

Phil Kessel Hat Trick: Consumption of three "Hot Pockets" during a single intermission.


23.may.2016 culture
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Creative Africa and Ikiré Jones

Exploring the suite of exhibitions that comprise the Creative Africa celebration at the Philadelphia Museum of Art it was impossible to miss the sole contemporary menswear display by none other than Philadelphia's own Ikiré Jones—and equally impossible to overlook creative director Walé Oyéjidé in one of his own striking sport coats. The Ikiré Jones aesthetic is a fusion of African textiles with European tailoring, and to Walé this reflects both the global nature of contemporary African design and his own journey. "It's not solely one thing or another," he observes; "at this point I'm as American as I am Nigerian." When asked if a common thread between the wildly varying genres and aesthetics in the exhibitions might be working with materials rather than against them, he offered "...and maybe just using what you have".

Creative Africa continues through the end of the year. Ikiré Jones' made-to-order sport coats are available online for $450.
16.may.2016 culture design style
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Bella Spalla sport coats from eHaberdasher

For a couple of years now, sport coats from eHaberdasher's own Benjamin brand have presented an unbeatable value proposition: Italian-made, half-canvassed, made with a flattering cut and materials from top mills, and almost always under $400. Our only reservation in the past has been the overly-skinny lapels, a problem now solved in their latest batch of Bella Spalla Sport Coats. Look for the listings that specify "classic 9mm lapel" for grown-man-ready goodness. Two favourites shown: a magnificently textured brown plaid with olive overcheck and a soft blue and navy glen plaid (both $350).
09.may.2016 style
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Reliable Indicators

Sometimes a book's cover reveals more information than you may have been lead to believe. While not 100% accurate, there are enough cases of one characteristic being a reliable indicator of another that a Venn diagram of the two would indicate nearly complete overlap. Examples:

A: Men who wear bad shoes · B: Men who are bad people
A: Wearing double monkstraps · B: Taking medical advice from pharmaceutical commercials
A: "Selfie stick" · B: Psychopathy
A: Axe product users · B: Trump voters residing in frat houses
A: People who hate Cap'n Crunch · B: Jihadists


02.may.2016 culture
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Intelligent auto technology needs to wise up

Cars these days are loaded with computers, satellite receivers, radar, light sensors, moisture sensors, tire pressure monitors, cameras, thermometers, and pretty much everything they need to analyze the vehicle's location, surroundings and contents. Which makes it all the more irritating that they always seem to lack some common-sense functionality. For instance:
  • Smarter Front Airbag Override — If you can't tell the difference between a heavy briefcase dropped on the front passenger seat and a human being, then you probably aren't doing it right. Thanks to multipurpose LED displays we can't just stick black electrical tape over that idiot light anymore.

  • Better Situational Awareness For Safety Warnings — Your satnav-enabled car can pinpoint your exact position on the planet. You also told it where "home" is so that you can navigate there with a button press. So it needs to recognize that you're in your driveway, and not on a public road, and that you have every right to get out and retrieve your mail from the box without the vehicle screaming that your door is open and your seatbelt is undone and holy s**t we're all going to die unless you get back in and buckle up.

  • Genuinely Useful Voice Control — It's nice that you can say "call the office" or "play USB" and the car will place a call or start the music. What we really need is that when you're backing up, and a distant vehicle triggers the BEEPBEEPBEEPBEEPBEEPBEEP cross-traffic alert, you can yell "I SEE IT, GODDAMMIT" and make it STFU.

25.apr.2016 tech
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20% better than a tailor, eh? Riiiiiiiight. | Fail

Clothing brand Mtailor claims that their app will use pictures of you to create a high quality garment that is "20% better than a tailor".

Two of these images are from their TV commercials, presumably showing some of their best work. The third shows the result when Buzzfeed took a break from copying other sites' content and attempted a product review. The last uses images from Mtailor's own site to demonstrate their ideals for sleeve length, pant length, and how clothes should be worn.

It seems the tailors of the world needn't worry about job security anytime soon.
18.apr.2016 style tech
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