The Latest: Saturday 04 September 2010
Hackett's Autumn/Winter 2010 Look Book: Thanks for bogarting the good stuff, you imperialist swine.Classic British label Hackett London just rolled out their fall look book, and it always impresses us how well the brand manages to be completely modern and at the same time utterly classic. Overcoats have a trad British structure, but the lapels are tweaked just so and the overall look rendered a bit more sleek. Trousers are classic tweedy wools, but cut slim and straight and hemmed just a little higher. Holdalls are supple and beefy enough to smuggle Richard Hammond from Top Gear in your carry-on luggage.Unfortunately, while we can look all we want, there's no shopping their online store from The Colonies because they just won't ship it over here. Hey, Hackett, why do you hate America? ...OK, besides that... What? OK, besides THAT. Hey, Tony Blair went right along with it, OK? So "bugger off". 03.sep.2010 style | |
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We dig knit blazersHere at Unrefinery we really love the elusive knit blazer. On the surface, this is essentially a cardigan with a notched lapel. Simple enough, but it seems like a difficult thing to get right. We haven't found any that we really love this year. Have you? Better examples from previous seasons shown here included a Wings + Horns fleece (left) with a lot of structure and a tight knit; a Varvatos (center) that is more of a chunky loose sweater, and a Coventry piece (right) that lies somewhere between the two.01.sep.2010 style | |
Fossil bags for the long haul | BuyA recent chat with some trusted local shopkeepers turned to the subject of good, basic bags that wear well, and a surprising name came up. Fossil, it turns out, make really solid leather goods that get better with age, and our examination of a beautiful and heavily patinaed old shoulder bag confirmed it. And here we thought they only made unremarkable denim and watches. Shown: Messenger ($168) and Duffel ($198), each available in three colours.30.aug.2010 style | |
Do we have to spell it out? | FailWe offer a lot of advice around here, some solicited and some not, but there were a few things we thought could be taken for granted and left unsaid. This time, however, the stakes are high enough that we're not taking any chances, so here it is: Don't wear a giant crocheted foreskin on your head. Unless you want to be like these two douchebags, in which case, knock yourself out.27.aug.2010 style | |
Makeover Fail | FailWe're not going to mention the site (because we actually like it a lot) or show the guy's face (out of pity) but a regional blog ran a makeover contest to get the winner some new clothes from local retailers. You take a look at these photos, and you think, damn, I can see why they picked this man. The poor guy's wearing jeans that are so long he steps on them, dated and clumsy square-toed loafers, and a Colonel Buffalo Bill Howdy Pardner Wild West shirt. Clearly a guy who needs help....and then you realize, with horror, that these are the AFTER photos. (shudder) Maybe that's the first rule of doing a makeover: make sure the AFTER doesn't look like a BEFORE. | |
PSA: Made-to-measure test shirts, $20 | BuyIf you've read our articles about online made-to-measure shirts and were on the fence about jumping in, now is the time. One of our favourite makers, ModernTailor.com, is offering a $20 test shirt in basic white or black broadcloth for new customers. You won't find a better opportunity to try it out and get your fit dialed in. Note: MT offers a couple of different measuring methods; we recommend measuring a shirt that you already own which is close to the fit you like and making any necessary adjustments.23.aug.2010 style | |
Pinstripe suit trousers, hold the jacket | BuyIf you've ever sought menswear advice from a dusty old book—or a dusty old dude—you've probably heard that a navy blazer goes with everything. That might be true, but we don't need a blazer that goes with everything—if it's cool enough for that, we'd rather wear a suit. What we can really use are trousers that go with everything. And as long as we're breaking fundamental rules of sartorialism, our vote is for wool pin- or chalk-stripe suit trousers, in a highly neutral navy or charcoal, without the matching coat. Wear with just about any sort of light-coloured dress shirt with an open collar and rolled up sleeves, or maybe with a cardigan or v-neck on top. Decent straight-leg, flat-front trousers like this are hard to find in the pants department, so look for them as suit separates, and don't be afraid to get something a little stodgy and take it to your tailor for streamlining. They're just pants, for chrissakes. Shown, left to right: J.Crew Aldridge suit pant ($175), in charcoal or navy Loro Piana wool. Lands' End tailored fit year-rounders ($70), charcoal only. Bonobos "Blue Lines" charcoal pants with blue pinstripes ($175).20.aug.2010 style | |
Mailbag: Wearing a polo under a suit or blazerIslander writes: "Can I wear a polo shirt with a suit or sport coat?" Answer: You sure can, but it has a high degree of difficulty. The most important factor in making this work is selecting a polo collar with enough structure and heft to stay in place, otherwise it is going to slip under your lapels and look a bit s**t. There's a fine line between sprezzatura and looking like you aren't even trying. Shown: polo collars wilting and disappearing under Jack Victor (left) and Isaia (right) sport coats from the awesome Sierra Trading Post. | |
Grey Flannel Trouser Round-Up | BuyWool flannel has to be one of our favourite materials of all time. Its rich texture reads as both sophisticated and a bit raw; you can wear it as a pattern next to solids or as a solid next to patterns. As fall styles roll in, it's an embarrassment of riches if you're looking for a staple grey flannel trouser, because there is literally something for every style and budget. Left: This month, Esquire took a break from writing riveting articles about men's drinking habits and peeing themselves over "Mad Men" to feature three dressy options. In typical Esquire fashion, they range in price from $175 to $670. They're all beautiful, but if you wear $670 trousers, you're a bit of an ass. Middle: A couple of weeks back we featured an L.L.Bean Signature wool blazer, and here are the awesome matching trousers ($109), nearly perfect with a touch of stretch lycra, straight leg, and normal rise. We're stocking up. Right: And for something completely different, Complex features a new take on the classic with a Levi's 511 wool-blend jean ($80). What'd we tell you? Something for everyone.16.aug.2010 style | |
HUGO Fall/Winter 2010We love this time of year. Just as pre-season games hint of lazy Sundays to come, so do fall designer previews remind us that someday the weather will again allow us to wear proper grown-up clothes (despite our inherent mistrust of grown-ups). The Hugo Boss HUGO F/W preview is out, and we're enjoying the fact that unlike in previous seasons, it's mostly rather wearable—a silver lining to the global economic recession is that luxury goods makers have to be a lot less self-indulgent and frankly stop f**king around. The fall 2010 HUGO look is about monochromes and neutrals, including a new icy blue/grey that we really dig. Also always welcome: heavy textured knits and gigantic heavy scarves. Some highlights from left to right: Alexander McQueenesque pattern coat (although we'd wear it with solids, not two other goddamn patterns). Rich flannelly wool coat that reminds us of great Hugo Boss outerwear from previous seasons. Fantastic chunky sweater.13.aug.2010 style | |
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