The Latest: Monday 08 February 2010
 | GQ Magazine demonstrates why we do this s**t | FailWe've written about this endlessly already, but the paucity of genuinely useful men's style magazines continues to amaze us. Case in point: GQ's 2010 "Most Stylish Men" feature is headlined by a shirtless Johnny Depp, a shirtless David Beckham, Tom Brady's beard stubble and Robert Pattinson's hair. Now, regardless of which team you play for, we have to ask: how this any of this is at all useful to anyone? We turn to style experts for advice on improving how we present ourselves. If all they can tell us is to have a young person's hairline, or to be a ripped athlete or movie star, well, the percentage of us who can take that advice is probably rather low. This is disappointing because GQ has the resources to evaluate and present comprehensive buying guides to literally dozens of items each issue. It's no doubt easier to instead put together a scrapbook of celebrity photos like this, strewn with a few sentences that reiterate the obvious, but since when is easier better? |
Special ReportValentine's Day Gift Advice from StyleMayvin | BuyValentine's Day is fast approaching, and instead of just taking our usual wild guess at what dames want, someone here had the idea that maybe we should just, you know, ask them. So we prevailed upon one of the most fashionable women we know, T.Strong aka StyleMayvin, to throw us a bone. She kindly took time out from her busy schedule of publishing and TV appearances to help us out.StyleMayvin: "Most men probably won't believe this but honestly, women are really quite simple to understand and overall, pretty easy to buy gifts for. More about quality than the price tag, ladies love to create memories around the gifts we receive and in that vein my advice to the Gents is to do just that. Take her to a cozy Bed & Breakfast and surprise her with a beautiful heart pendant. Although it may sound a bit cliché, make it memorable by having it engraved with a special message. The basic 'I Love You' simply won't do unless it's the first time you've said it BUT be sure she feels the same or it could make for a very interesting weekend. Maybe the message could be something quirky that only the two of you know and understand... either way, the ambience coupled with this thoughtful gift trumps roses and chocolates anyday." Shown left to right: Return to Tiffany Mini double heart tag pendant [$100], Sweetheart Heirloom Locket from Blue Nile Check out StyleMayvin this week to see our pick for gents, and every week for insights and commentary on women's fashion. | |
 | Hugo Boss F/W 2010: braun mit grauen, jawohl!The typical Hugo Boss fall/winter palette ranges from Spinal Tap Smell The Glove Black to extremely dark greys, but they will get all giddy and surprise us now and then with slightly lighter greys and browns. This year's runway show was pretty much as expected, but we particularly liked seeing browns and greys put together in both the men's and women's collections. While it's almost always safe to combine black/white with a colour or a colour with a neutral, there's something fundamentally sophisticated about pulling together warm and cool neutrals in the same range and making it work. (Sorry, no Brownshirts jokes this time. Too easy.)03.feb.2010 style |
 | Mailbag: The Toggle Menace | FailAmanda M writes: "My husband wants to buy a toggle coat, but I think the hood looks dumb on a grown man. Am I right here?" Answer: It's not the hood that bothers us. It's the toggle itself, which looks like crap when the coat is unbuttoned... and how often are you really going to button all of those things? Also, the rapid rate of contagion for this accessory suggests that we're looking at a fad that will look dated just as fast—absolutely everyone has jumped on this bandwagon, so now we have toggle coats, toggle sweaters, toggle loafers, and (see photo, which proves we're not s**tin' you) a toggle scarf. Seriously, what the f**k? Next year we'll look back at this trend with the same fondness we now hold for H1N1. |
 | John Boehner is the opposite of cool | FailWe've heard Obama's speeches described as "liberal porn", but if they are, then dear God why does the televised State of the Union always include a reaction shot of House Minority Leader John Boehner (R-Ohio)? If the speech is a naughty video, then this is the clichéd bit where they cut to the creepy dude's face at the worst possible moment. Besides, the last time we saw a bright orange chemical tan like this, it was on MTV in an Ed Hardy shirt instead of slouching in an ill-fitting suit and too-small button-down collar. |
 | Craig Ferguson's style: don't try this at homeCraig Ferguson was the best thing on late night TV even before NBC started thinning the herd, and his wardrobe is a good example of how who you are has a real bearing on what you can wear. He starts with strong suits (we particularly endorse his John Varvatos collection) but after that, the execution is the kind of thing only he can get away with: he never buttons his coat, his shirt has a pocket, and he wears skinny ties. None of this would work on most of us—particularly most 47-year-olds—but on a tattooed ex-punk drummer from the U.K. turned self-effacing clown, it really rocks. Context is key. (Take note, urban lumberjacks of New York.) |
 | Just Say No to 80s denim | FailA.P.C.'s New Standard Jean is aptly named; it really is the workhorse selvage denim for underfed trendy types. Unfortunately the spring/summer 2010 collection brings a so-called "washed blue", which borders on pastel. Now you kids out there, you might not have seen this before, so we want to warn you against going down this road. Those of us who were around in the eighties know this all too well. It's a slippery slope that leads to severely tapered legs, high waists, quite possibly pleats, a label that reads "Z.Cavaricci", and ultimately to "mommy jeans". Don't buy into this; in the end it will bring you only sadness.25.jan.2010 style |
Special ReportThree-season investments in style | BuyIt's impossible get excited about the arrival of spring styles when the Western hemisphere is still buried in snow and ice. But if you've got gift cards burning a hole in your pocket, here's an opportunity to invest in a couple of versatile items under $100 that you can wear three (or possibly even four) seasons.1. J.Crew cotton shawl-collar cardigan | $88 A really similar cardigan appeared at J.Crew last year, and if you were waiting for a sale, you probably didn't get one. They quickly sold out of almost all remotely humanoid sizes. The natural muslin colour works in spring over a light-coloured T-shirt, in fall over an open collar button-down, and even in summer—throw it on poolside after you towel off. The navy version also works if you're James Bond. 2. Clarks Desert Boots | $95 We've mentioned desert boots before, and you can buy them at a lot of places for around the same price. We like Nordstrom because of their legendary customer service, and because right now they have good stock of all 5 main suede colours. Taupe and Sand are the classics, and you can literally wear them almost year-round with just about anything other than a suit: khakis, shorts, denim, or corduroy. Extremely comfortable, they look even better with wear, and thanks to the natural crepe sole you can quietly sneak out of boring meetings in 'em. A better style investment you won't find, if for that reason alone. 21.jan.2010 style | |
 | An Unrefinery Haiku: DB Has Gone Too Far | FailDouble-breasted style: Great on dames, bad for sweaters. (Sorry, Betty Ford) 20.jan.2010 style |
 | Mailbag: Limey shirts for the people | BuyDylan writes: "I wish I could afford the Thomas Pink shirt you endorsed last week, but not all of us can drop $130 even on a special item. What's the next best thing??" Answer: Jermyn Street is apparently quite a piece of real estate, and farther down it you'll find Charles Tyrwhitt, who are a bit of... well, let's say an "homage" to Thomas Pink. Normally also expensive, their frequent (some would say perpetual) sales drop their shirts into the $40-$70 range. And like TP they offer a non-iron option. |
 | Statistical breakdown of the new Urban Outfitters catalog | Fail12% — grainy, distant, artier-than-thou shots of men's clothing9% — rugs and wicker crap from a 1978 state university dorm room 79% — images of emaciated girls who look to be around 12 years old, and appear to have been put in lingerie and adult makeup and forced by the molester who kidnapped them to pose for creepy photos 15.jan.2010 style |
 | We dig the 2012 Ford Focus | WaitThe Detroit auto show is here, and it's nice to see that the recession has forced carmakers to show some of the most relevant new models we've seen in years. One thing we always look for is a segment comparable to the small, efficient, cheap, handsome cars that Europeans have been driving for decades. Given the perpetual vapourware of the Chevy Volt we aren't holding our breath for any of the electric models, but damn it's nice to see the 2012 Ford Focus on its way to both Europe and North America next year. We could picture driving one of these things around that Arc de Triomphe roundabout, dodging wine- and garlic-soaked Frogs on Vespas. Actually, given the sorry state of the dollar, buying one of these would probably be cheaper than going over there. You might even have enough cash left over to round out the experience with and a bunch of cheese and baguettes and a Maurice Chevalier CD.13.jan.2010 tech |
 | 60s-70s via the 90sHere at Unrefinery we refer often to the classic styles sported by well-dressed gents of the 60s and 70s, but the truth is, you can't dress up like Frank Bullitt or John Shaft today and not look like you raided your dad's closet. Given a few years' perspective, we'd opine that the warmed-over version of 60s-70s style (as rolled out in the 90s) works better than the original. The idea is to incorporate a key 70s colour (brown, caramel, gold), or pattern, or accessory, or the ubiquitous turtleneck... but no more than one or two of these things at the same time. Shown: Camp Lo's awesome Luchini (1997).11.jan.2010 style |
 | Thomas Pink Slim Traveller | BuyGiven the great pricing and service to be had from online custom shirtmakers, we don't buy a lot of off-the-rack anymore. But we'll make an exception for Thomas Pink slim-fit traveller shirts, which combine most of the things we like about the legendary Jermyn Street product with a more modern fit and effective wrinkle resistance. They don't have the pieced sides of their classic shirt, which we can live without. They do have a useless pocket, which we'd like to delete. Still, it's nice to have a Thomas Pink for non-suit occasions, to wear under your favourite cardigan or v-neck sweater.08.jan.2010 style |
 | R.I.P. Workwear Trend, 2006-2009 | FailFashion trends don't usually die of natural causes; they tend to be killed off by overexposure. Added to an otherwise contemporary wardrobe, the chambray work shirt works by adding a bit of retro flavour. The problem is that the hipsters didn't stop there; they layered it with heaps of plaid and wool flannel and cardboard-textured denim and (this is the worst part) stopped shaving. This doesn't turn a coffee-shop neo-hippie into Joe Working Man; it reads as a costume and an awkward one at that.06.jan.2010 style |
 | Bonobos Washed Khakis | BuyThey hinted that this was coming in our June interview, and here they are: Bonobos washed khakis for $88, a new low price point yet still made in the Garment District in NYC. The fit seemed improved even over their wool trousers, and the Bonobos folks confirmed that this is in fact an improved cut with a more comfortable seat. As always with Bonobos, a great lining—in this case a cotton plaid that does a good job of keeping one's shirt in place. They're wonderfully soft and broken-in without being in any way broken-down or worn out (our day is not complete until we have denigrated J.Crew). Look for all kinds of new stuff from the label in 2010, including sport shirts, dress shirts, and suit separates.04.jan.2010 style |
Special ReportThe Unrefinery Award for 2009: Old NavyNow just hear us out, OK? Every place you shop is going to have a signal-to-noise ratio, and Old Navy's is about as low as anyone's—visit the store and you'll swim in a sea of gargantuan tacky fleece (and occasionally gargantuan shoppers). Just the same, we've always counted on them for solid basics including soft, fitted v-neck Ts in great colours, dark denim jeans that are neither raw and precious nor artificially distressed to s**t, and cotton crew-neck sweaters.This year, however, they really went above and beyond the call, and their timing could not have been better. In the face of a miserable economic climate, ON responded by moving into Zara/H&M territory with some unexpected pieces that showed a surprising awareness of current style. Great cable knits. A wonderfully chunky shawl collar cardigan that stacks up against similar pieces at J.Crew costing twice as much. A really cool military jacket. And the biggest surprise, an earthy olive/brown herringbone trouser in washable soft cotton that looks like something you'd find at Odin New York at 10 times the cost. Or maybe at ON's sister brand Banana Republic, where it'd go for $70 and be dry clean only. You could put together a day's entire fit out of Old Navy pieces in 2009, something we could never say before. And you could do it for under $100, and buy it all online. They were there for us during a rough year with just what we needed. Shown, clockwise from upper left: v-neck T ($7.50) in shawl collar cardigan ($34). Cotton herringbone trousers ($20). Cable-knit crewneck sweater ($18). | |
 | Killer underwear: pathetic. | FailThere was a time when part of the "evil terrist" recruiting literature was a section on how you got to wear some ninja-looking black pajamas and run around the desert in style. Fast forward to December 2009, where the pitch is apparently, "join our cell of killer f**kwits and you can put on a sort of weaponized maxi-pad that will singe your nuts off". If it's come to this, we can all breathe a little easier, because clearly the bad guys are losing. |
 | Mailbag: Tote This | BuyDL writes: "I'm trying not to go total man purse, but sometimes there just isn't enough room in my briefcase or messenger for my computer, Blackberry, books, and everything else, esp. on days that call for an umbrella and scarf or gloves. Do I have any choice other than 2 cases or breaking out actual luggage?" Answer: Somewhere between the briefcase and the weekender duffel resides the standard tote, a few inches larger than a typical messenger bag in every dimension. Just get a basic, plain one in a dark colour. We've been trying out an all-leather L.L.Bean model that has turned out to be great value for $129, and it's rather handsome as long as you can live with a lining printed with fish and ducks and other woodland crap. |
 | Mailbag: NBA Uniforms | FailAl writes: "I read your picks of the best unis in the NFL and NHL, but why haven't you named the best dressed team in the NBA?" Answer: Because that would be like picking Germany's funniest comedian. NBA uniforms are uniformly (sorry) devoid of any design merit whatsoever; you might have to go find a style site with lower self-esteem if you really need to determine the least crappy among them. Shown: Suns alternate jersey. As if living in Phoenix wouldn't suck enough without having to wear that. |
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