unrefinery

Here at Unrefinery we write about style and design for gents, and occasionally we try not to be dicks about it.

February 9, 2017  ·  style

Suitsupply S/S 2017 Pre-Order

Suitsupply's Spring/Summer 2017 Collection is now online for pre-order. A few highlights from outside the reliably great suit department:

Havana Lightweight Checked Jackets [$400-$500]
Ranging from partially to completely unlined, in linen and linen blends, this is a slim but traditionally styled jacket in some of Suitsupply's best materials. The blue checks are beautiful, but check out the tan windowpane. Very Hermès. Baller as f*ck.

Merino Short-Sleeved Sweater [$60]
You wear it like a t-shirt, but it has the sheen you only get from extra-fine wool. The elasticized cuffs and hem elevate it and whatever casual sportswear you pair with it. This is the kind of thing J.Crew would ruin by putting a triangle sweatshirt stitch at the neck.

Wool Field Jacket [$500]
Descended from the classic M65, and normally encountered in their treated cotton variants, Suitsupply's grey and navy field jackets are slimmed and shortened and made from VBC wool—but just as water-resistant as their military forebears.

January 19, 2017  ·  style

Uniqlo's Amazing $50 Tweed Jackets

Without asking who the heck wasn't buying these things at $100, Uniqlo's handsome tweed jackets—now on sale for $50—do a pretty good job of checking off design elements from the traditional sartorialist's wish list:
  • Patch pockets.
  • Lapels wide enough to overlap the chest pocket.
  • Minimally structured.
  • Soft shoulders(!)
  • Working cuff buttons(!!!)
That said, there are going to be some caveats at this price point:
  • The material is a 70/30 wool blend. Feels pretty nice though. Tweedy.
  • Sizing is coarse: S/M/L. The M seems between a 38 and a 40.
  • The limited sizing is going to cause a problem if the sleeves aren't pretty close to the correct length for you (as they aren't for Uniqlo's unfortunately dressed model shown here), since surgeon's cuffs are difficult to alter. Maybe 1/2" at best. You aren't going to be adjusting sleeves from the shoulder on a mass-produced $50 coat, son.
So if they aren't pretty close to a good fit for you, you aren't going to be able to make them work. But if they are, don't just buy one— drop $200, collect your instant collection of tweed blazers, and head off to your local tailor for fine tuning.
December 29, 2016  ·  culture  ·  design  ·  style

The Unrefinery Award for 2016: Canada

They already had Jagmeet Singh and Red Canoe. And then the year that Canada became the place to live in North America was also the first full year of office for Justin Trudeau, the Prime Minister of Style Versatility. He's got scarves. He's got Maple Leaf socks. He's wearing peak lapel suits without ties. He's going sprezzatury as f**k (and, appropriately, a little gay) at Pride parades with vintage casual. He might not completely make up for Don Cherry but he's clearly doing everything he can.
December 5, 2016  ·  culture  ·  meta

Computerized Fittings Since 2073

Unrefinery has previously written about automated fitting apps/services and their comically bad output, but we've just finally connected the dots on where we've seen this before. Woody Allen's 1973 film Sleeper, about a man who is cryogenically preserved and wakes up 200 years in the future, was remarkably prescient on both the process and its results.
It's time to stuff some stockings, and we've got you covered. Our made-from-Africa men's accessories brand, Thomas Mark Heritage, has just launched an all-new website featuring a half-dozen new pocket squares printed in Ghana and Mali. For Unrefinery readers, use promo code unrefinery16 for 20% off all orders through December 23, 2016. Because Unrefinery readers are part of our special family. And we only sort of mean "special" in a short schoolbus kind of way.
November 21, 2016  ·  culture

Kilt Pin > Safety Pin

The wearing of a safety pin is a nice symbol of solidarity in a troubling time, representing both acceptance and literal safety as the wearer has committed to helping protect those vulnerable to harassment or abuse. Unrefinery endorses this, and also the next logical evolution, the kilt pin. Wearing a kilt pin says that you are just as committed to standing up for your neighbours, but that you'll do it in a way that is bigger, safety-er, manlier, and insinuates that you don't have any underwear on. Make it a thing, everyone.
November 14, 2016  ·  style

L.B.M. 1911 F/W 2016

Remember when Bonobos was a small label dedicated solely to the production of luxurious, offbeat American-made trousers? Remember when they decided to become Vineyard Vines and Unrefinery stopped writing about them? This is what's great about Lubiam's L.B.M. 1911 division: They know what they're about and they riff on it with abandon. You get minimally lined, minimally structured sport coats, interspersed with the occasional minimally structured piece of outerwear. It's great. They hit Yoox the next season, they're affordable, and you can collect them like sweaters.

The F/W 2016 story is all about texture, and it's expressed in many interesting ways—oversized birdseye weaves, a beautiful navy/purple melange in an alpaca blend, a wool/cotton jersey blend that looks like indigo Sashiko denim. Plus the usual delightful juxtapositions, such as peak lapels that mean business but are rendered in a sort of washed cotton canvas. Good stuff.
Designer Ayodeji Osinulu's recent interview in Style Rave about Africa's Sartorial Identity expresses a sentiment consistent with a lot of writing on contemporary African menswear: that the marketplace has been established to the point where some thoughtful self-reflection on how much cultural representation needs to be conveyed in what we design and wear. Being that Unrefinery also operates an African menswear label, it's a balance that we consider in our product design and market placement as well. Our aesthetic is African, but how overtly African does it need to be by the standards of the rest of the world?
October 24, 2016  ·  design  ·  style  ·  tech

Zac Posen's Delta Uniforms

Zac Posen has taken on the non-trivial task of designing uniforms for more than 60,000 frontline Delta employees spanning a wide variety of occupations. The technical considerations had to be innumerable, from microbiological factors in food service to reflectiveness for runway personnel, so you'd hesitate to criticize any of it too harshly had Delta not peppered their press release with terms like "high fashion", "elegance" and "glamour". Which they did. Setting the bar kind of high.

The clearly utilitarian "below wing" clothes actually look pretty cool, comprised of polos and flat-front trousers made from technical materials. The "above wing" and desk uniforms for women range from nice to stunning—how many airlines would include a plum leather bag with matching gloves in the kit they issue to employees?

And then there's the men's flight attendant uniform. It's a three-piece suit with no lapels on the jacket. Clearly this is an effort to discourage men from becoming flight attendants, and maybe that's OK.
October 17, 2016  ·  style

Knit Suit Envy

Men have long envied the drapey comfort that women enjoy with knit suits, and have longed for a way to successfully translate this into our realm. Not a track suit, not Betabrand's self-parodying onesie, but an honest-to-God knit suit that's cut like something we might actually wear in place of the genuine article.

The difficult part is, of course, the trousers. Smart travelers have been hip to knit blazers for years. Nobody is really trying that hard to bring the other half up to speed; results are invariably more like a weird sweatsuit with lapels and vestigial belt loops (see Zara's attempt above).

We may never get good-looking knit suits with trousers that drape rather than sag. Performance fabrics, however, might achieve some of the desired results—woven cottons with high elastane or high-tech polymer content give us increasing amounts of stretch, shape retention and machine washability. Combined with the perpetual promise that This Season Trousers Really Are Getting Looser, we may someday yet bring the cozy without reverting to a crumpled mess by day's end.
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