Maybe it's just that the greatness of previous Suitsupply collections set the bar at a height that's difficult to consistently clear, but the first thing that jumps out about the Fall Collection is what isn't there: After all the work the brand put into reinventing the double-breasted form, turning what was a box containing a banker into a modern, masculine silhouette, they seem to have essentially abandoned it. The new season includes one (1) DB sport coat. And four DB suits, but two look a lot like holdovers from last year and one is an outrageously unwearable tartan tuxedo.

On the other hand, if you like plaid, there's no shortage of options ranging from subtle to loud. Which brings us to the evolution of the brand's "Washington" cut. The latter began life as a Tom Ford... let's say homage... with peak lapels, a drop of 8, and even 5 buttons on the cuff. As Ford himself has inched towards narrower lapels it's possible that SS's take is now becoming more like what we'd consider the classic TF style than TF itself, with the Washington blue check jacket losing the vestigial third front button and adding some curvature (what tailors call "belly") to the lapels.

Suitsupply's knitwear may not be what the brand is known for but every year they offer a couple of well-priced pieces that have a certain elegance in their absence of extraneous details. This time around highlights include a simple cable crewneck in a beautiful ochre colour, a burgundy 100% cashmere hoodie and a plum shawl cardigan that are both mercifully free of midsection-padding pockets, each under $200. Nice.

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